The Woodside Ferry Terminal is the first port of call on our Wirral voyage, in search of new street art honouring 2 local legends. The ferry service is suspended pending a £7 million pound renovation however despite appearances, the terminal building remains open. Inside there is a lively atmosphere full of customers enjoying the many restaurants.

The neighbouring U boat story, now operated by BIG Heritage is also being redeveloped. Currently closed, plans have recently been unveiled as part a government funded regeneration programme. U-534 was recovered from the sea bed in 1993 and the improvements to the site will allow better access and interpretation of one of only 4 surviving U boats in the world. The proposed new museum will have three storeys and include a riverside café and event space. BIG Heritage, good friends of Chester who operate Sick to Death and The Deva Roman Experience say in their planning submission: “Together with the sister venue at Western Approaches, a new campus across the Mersey will be formed, bringing together the Allied HQ with the enemy submarine, the hunter and the hunted.” The potential regeneration of the area is massive.

Back to the mission and after a short search of the adjacent Woodside business park, I approach the Mersey Tunnel ventilation tower, an icon of the Birkenhead skyline when viewed from the other side of the Mersey. Walking through the arch reveals a riverside walk and looking out to the river are the faces of Paul O Grady and his alter ego Lily Savage. The tribute to the legendary comedian actor and broadcaster who died in March has been painted by the Wallasey artist Brezaux and was commissioned by property developers Peel. Alongside Paul is another portrait of a Birkenhead born star: a striking portrait of Glenda Jackson and her 2 Oscars, against a red House of Commons logo representing her time as a Labour MP.

Both of these portraits should become deserving local landmarks boosting civic pride, although the location isn’t signposted yet and could easily be missed by visitors. We need more art of local famous people ( Chester- where is our Russ Abbot tribute??).

Next up, a visit to a historic site and within walking distance of the terminal. Birkenhead Priory is the oldest building standing on Merseyside. It is a place I have often seen mentioned but never found the time to visit. Founded in 1150, the monks provided accommodation for travellers and were also the original Mersey Ferry operators. Originally a secluded area, thick with Birch trees ( Birch on the head land, the origins of the towns name) the Priory is now surrounded by industrial and commercial units.

I arrive just in time for a free guided tour with volunteer guide Frank, full of facts and anecdotes about the history of the site. “Theres no bodies under here unless we find Trevor Jordache there!” he says, pointing at some gravestones inside the Chapter House, still a functioning Church of England chapel. A section of the priory is in ruins thanks to the actions of Henry VIII, but there is much to explore within the grounds. The Undercroft houses a museum which features some actual dinosaur footprints, above this is the Refectory complete with a modern roof . The Scriptorium, where centuries ago the monk community would write , is now dedicated to the crews of HMS Conway- a training ship which formerly stood in the River Mersey off Rock Ferry. The room is packed with naval relics and memorabilia, and is managed by the Friends of HMS Conway. A calming blue light fills the room from the stained glass windows. The room is used by a diminishing number of ex servicemen who meet here for events.

Next up is the tower of St Mary’s all that remains of the first parish church of Birkenhead ( built 1821). Built for the growing number of neighbouring residents, the Church itself was demolished in the 1970s as the land was taken over for other uses. The tower is dedicated to the memory of 99 men who died on board the submarine HMS Thetis, with their names listed all the way to the top of the 101 steps. The submarine sank in the Mersey in the summer of 1939 as a result of a tragic accident.

The top of the tower provides an impressive view of the local area- all for free. A notable sight is the University of Chester’s Health and Nursing education facility, a reminder that home is never far away.

Visitors can see into the Cammel Laird shipyard and a dry dock with a dark historical connection. Built here in 1862 by John Laird, Sons & Co, the precursor to Cammel Laird, was the Confederate warship the CSS Alabama. To subvert British neutrality in the American Civil War, the ship was built here and its armaments fitted elsewhere. The notorious Alabama caused massive damage, and went on to capture and destroy 55 Union merchant ships. After the War the British were ordered to pay Britain had to pay millions in compensation for the destruction bought about by the ship.

Birkenhead Priory is a great place to visit, sitting apparently in an isolated location once again, far from the tourist crowds of Liverpool, yet with centuries of history emanating from it. It’s free to visit and is open Wednesday to Sunday.

I head towards the town centre and the main shopping area passing few people in the still streets. The red brick of the Conway Centre opposite the bus station looks majestic but now apparently empty. Also empty is the House of Fraser building, the common site of a vast former retail space, the tombstone of how we used to live in the pre internet age.

“No I Owe Yous or sob stories please” says a sign on a stall selling underwear, socks and smoking paraphernalia in the covered area outside Birkenhead market. Opened in its current home in 1977 the market is now in terminal decline, with the outdoor area feeling post apocalyptic, traders eking out a life selling DVDS for 50p. The remaining traders face an uncertain future as the council plans a new market, originally proposed to be built on the site of House of Fraser. Recent news reports have confused the matter with the council now favouring a move to the recently vacated Argos ( closed this March). Construction of the new market was supposed to begin in early 2024 but no planning application has been submitted.

Walking the mainly empty aisles of the Market at 3pm on a lonely Friday afternoon is a surreal experience. There are 35 stalls businesses spaced across the hall, with large gaps in between traders and long empty aisles. The council have obviously given up on the place with no effort made to cover the vacant units, signs left up, equipment inside left to rot.

The evocatively named Dixie Dean aisle is occupied only by Billy Hill Curtains. Around the corner a closed down hair salon is full of abandoned equipment, lighting , power cables and a card machine dumped on the floor. The whole place feels unloved and uncared for. The County Produce section at the rear of the market has 3 traders open and 10 empty units, the void between occupied stalls across the whole market suggesting that Mike Jones was right to make Chester market smaller all those years ago. Another empty unit features signage for both Enrico’s Barber and Hilary’s cards- revealing the multiple layers of decay. Despite this, PJ’s Magic Stall has some quirky gifts, one of which I select as a Christmas present, PJ himself offering a friendly service. As the traders outside start to pack up I buy some 1990s Beatles Books for a pound each. Whilst no doubt the market traders work hard to serve the community, the building, lay out and confused future plans all dim the hopes.

Towering over the Grange Precinct are two new office buildings, recently completed and currently empty. Wirral Council will invest more than £9m moving its offices into one of the buildings notes the Liverpool Echo.

The shopping area itself is pleasant and nice for a wander, free of the uncomfortably amplified karaoke buskers of Liverpool. An independent roast chicken eatery adds interest alongside the standard high street chains. Trade and Play, its name suggesting one of those cash converter style businesses, in fact offers a huge range of retro and current film and TV memorabilia, including vintage Lego. Every shop of this type has failed in Chester. Further on, the Pyramids Shopping Centre is a perfectly fine modern retail space complete with food court.

The next day I have breakfast in Wimpy, the number 1 restaurant in Birkenhead according to TripAdvisor- boasting 389 5 star reviews. Whilst sipping my cappuccino I hear a member of staff offering soft buns to an elderly couple. ” Yeah save me teeth “ replies the customer. The breakfast is filling, served up in the time warp combination of fast food and diner style table service. Another good reason to visit the town, with Wimpy being a rarity in the UK now, with just 65 branches remaining- Shrewsbury being the next closest. The friendly and welcoming service is particularly notable.

The trip concludes with a 15 minute walk out of the town centre to visit the Williamson Art Gallery. Despite being a visitor to Merseyside for over 30 years I’ve never been here before. The gallery opened in 1928 and perhaps sits in the shadows of bigger and more well known attractions in Liverpool. A hidden Wirral gem, the gallery features a large pottery collection, ship models and Victorian furniture.

Currently on show is a documentary photo exhibition Outsiders by Marc Davenport. Featuring black and white portraits of the homeless and their moving testimonies. The exhibition tackles a sobering and complicated topic challenging preconceptions about the homeless and people living in poverty, their struggle and pain. A portrait of a woman with in her bathroom with a ceiling covered in black mould like a growing monstrous cloud leaves its mark. 300,000 people in the UK are experiencing some form of homelessness: Outsiders considers the causes and possible solutions. In a stark contrast the next exhibition here , opening on the 15th November is a collection of some the worst record covers of all time.

In conclusion I found much to enjoy in Birkenhead. Honourable mentions go to Hamilton Square– most people probably pass through on Merseyrail without getting out- and its 62 listed buildings- the largest square of listed buildings outside London. Birkenhead Park, not visited on this occasion, was the worlds’ first public park, and the inspiration for New York’s Central Park. The Park has recently been added to a list of sites to be considered for World Heritage status. I’ll definitely be returning