The city gives a “woeful impression to visitors with its potholes, dangerously uneven pavements and sordid public conveniences”, says one commenter to The York Press, a page I’ve been following for some time.

The moans are often eerily familiar: York, a city killed by the council with expensive parking charges ( “We must live in one of the dearest car parking cities”) , rows of empty shops and “too many” bars and restaurants. Just what York needs! The keyboard haters telling people theres “nothing much to go into York for anyway.. its all coffee shops, hairdressers and cafes!” To an outsider and a fan and visitor to York, the comments seem ridiculous, but as we see online locally, hysterical exaggeration is a big thing. 

I last visited the city in the autumn and greatly enjoyed the trip, with lots to do, lots of shops and lots of historical interest. Chester is often compared unfavourably to York, but people seem to forget that we are much smaller in size and population. According to the 2021 census figures the York population is 141,000, compared to Chester at 92,742. York has a much larger city centre, compared to our compact street footprint which is basically the 4 streets that meet at the Cross. Its a romantic idea to pit the two historic cities against each other, The Shambles vs the Rows, Romans vs Vikings , Eboracum vs Deva, Daniel Craig vs Guy Fawkes. Do consider the last one and the effort I spent typing the phrase into an AI art generator over and over, one wasted afternoon last week trying to create the following image.

York has 3 professional theatres, plus a large events venue (The Barbican) and the National Railway Museum. Theres a deep sigh of regret when you look at York’s Castle area with its excellent museum, and compare it with the wasted potential of our ruined and unused complex. But then again only 2 days ago the BBC were reporting uproar at plans to charge £20 a day to park in the York castle car park, the increase part of council budget cuts. Meanwhile York council’s controversial ban on blue badge parking in the city was only recently overturned. The city now follows our lead, allowing blue badges access via a staffed barrier. Similar anger was roused in York when anti terror bollards were installed across the city- including at one end of ye olde historic Shambles.

Walking the York streets, there are many high street retailers that we lack. They still have a mountain warehouse but its next to one of 3 central Sainsburys locals, which might annoy some people. Despite what the moaners say there are numerous boutique specialist shops: a shop selling Cat merchandise, a Teddy bear shop, a Christmas shop etc. Artisan cook wear, a high street haberdasher selling buttons etc, plus a sewing machine repair shop. Independent homeware retailer Barnitts (est 1896 Bulbs) stood out especially given the at the time, imminent closure of Wilko- how many places in Chester city centre can you buy flower bulbs for example? Off to Sealand Road you go.

We both have walls (York’s close at night) a racecourse, and our share of Brutalist architecture. York Minster I haven’t visited since childhood on account of the £18 entrance fee (free to residents however). The number of historic buildings that are open and in use as tourist attractions is definitely something we can learn from when we consider the multiple messes of Dee House and St Olaves Church for example. I wouldn’t expect much to change of that score however. Sometimes its easy to play “Sim Chester” and insert your fantasy tourist attractions or businesses- put a big Roman museum in there, a statue of Russ Abbot there, but our circumstances are often determined by historic decisions and cold reality…

York McDonalds is open 24 hours a day, every day (beats us) , but we now both have Picturehouse cinemas (tie). We both have BID sponsored coverings over empty shop units and a local artist pop up. Both of our Post Offices have been moved inside WHSmiths…

The comparisons could continue (does York have a Zoo?) but ultimately we both have our strengths and weaknesses making a rivalry feel forced. I’ve spent many years chronicling Chester’s magic as well as its failings and no doubt the positive minded York citizens do the same. I still can’t decide who would win in a time bending conflict between the organised discipline of the Roman army and a horde of berserk Vikings so I’ll just conclude that Chester and York can share first place in whatever imaginary city league table that comes out next.