On two nights every year, the clock winds back over 600 years as the Winter Watch Parade makes its way through Chester leaving a trail of noise, colour and community spirit. Onlookers packed onto the streets and rows marvel as a drumming ghost band lead a procession of angels, demons, chefs and dancing ravens. “It’s like the Wicker man! ” comments one friend. Banner carriers, a dragon, a donkey and other puppets, all created by the artist Russell Kirk are all part of this unique Chester tradition.
Carrying the Lord of Misrule puppet, Mark Williams has been taking part in the parades for many years. “When we moved to Chester 25 years ago we saw the parades – and I thought it must be local actors or something! But it’s great fun and a unique Chester thing so you have to get involved – or you just become one of those grumpy people that complain about everything like the town is dead and nothing ever happens here or there are too many parades! “ Having joined Mark as part of his pirate crew in the summer, with his encouragement I signed up for the Winter Watch along with my friend Jennie and her daughter.
With bad weather gripping the UK, there was concern that the parade might be cancelled. However once I arrived at Russell’s studio at the rear of the old B&M, he assured me it was all going ahead. The studio is packed with Russell’s creations, props and costumes that are used the Winter and Summer parades. He showed me upstairs to the green room, part of the long closed Gateway theatre, a hive of activity as performers arrive and select their costumes and make up. Anyone can take part in the parade by registering their interest on a Facebook group and simply turning up, there is no charge. After selecting my chef’s outfit the anticipation builds as Jennie and Isabelle arrive. Jennie and I are chefs, with Isabelle sitting in a modified wheelchair, her protruding head (surrounded by realistic looking sponge roast potatoes) the dish of the evening. Also getting ready in the green room was University of Chester researcher Neuza Morais, carrying out a case study into the parade’s reflection and reimagination of cultural identity. “I was supposed to be dressed normally, taking photos and notes, but I decided I needed to be in it!”
The origins of the parade can be traced back to archive records from the 1400s when the early Police force, the city Watch marched through the city to make sure it was secure. The Watch parade was revived by the council in the 1990s and has continued ever since with only a short break during the pandemic. One of the fun parts of watching the parades over the years has been spotting friends taking part. Ex Chester Chronicle journalist Jo Henwood was making her debut this year: “‘I love the whole history of the winter and summer watch parades – dating back to medieval times. I’ve lived in Chester for almost 30 years and thought it was about time I took part!” says Jo. Soon we are assembled on Hamilton Place, with the wind blowing a couple of the props over and a small group taking shelter beneath the ex B&M. We are led through the depths of the old market car park and then up Princess street, parallel to the Northgate development. We emerge at the Coach House, the hypnotic beat of Karamba Samba leading me into the Donald Trump style dance that Jennie suggests I do as I wave 2 cardboard knives in the air. We are blown away by the reception in Town Hall square, despite the poor weather with the Christmas market lined with spectators. Friends and family rush to greet us, we pose for photo after photo, and we smile and we smile. St Werburgh Street and Eastgate streets are a blur as the madness and happiness of the moment take us away. Jennie lifts the papier Mache platter, Isabelle screams , we pose and laughter fills the air. The Christmas lights reflected on the wet streets are dazzling as we move forward followed by an Angel, Unicorn and Jack Frost.
The parade takes in as much of the city as possible with side steps down Bridge street and Watergate street. I’m getting a bit tired by this point. Another long time parade contributor Nat Davies, has been taking part for over 15 years commented:
“It’s exhausting and at the end we always (jokingly) say “why do we do this?” and every parade I look at the people in the crowds, I see the happy smiling faces of the kids, surprised looks of the tourists and think “yeah, THIS is exactly why we do it” and I wouldn’t change that for anybody. Nothing’s more rewarding than bringing joy to other.”
Helen Fairbrother, playing a long fingered ice maiden has also been performing for over 15 years in the parades. She paid tribute to the creative genius Russell Kirk: “I would like to thank Russell for his true dedication through all years of bringing us all together to show this spectacular olde parade. All of his wonderful creations bring the streets every year!” Adopted Cestrian Meg, originally from the USA echoes this and the importance of Russell’s work to Chester:
“I met Russell about ten years ago when I was new to Chester. A friend suggested I reach out to him, and I’m so glad I did. My first visit was to his studio, and honestly, I was hooked from the start. I got involved with the summer parades, and the energy was just incredible—it completely drew me in. Over the years, I’ve taken part in several parades, with the Pirates being one of my all-time favourites, especially since I had some friends join in too. More recently, since moving back to Chester, I jumped at the chance to sign up for the Midsummer Watch. I even convinced a friend to join, someone who swore she was too introverted to ever do something like that—and now she’s absolutely hooked! There’s just something about Russell’s energy and the whole vibe he creates that’s so infectious. I love the sense of community, the positivity, and the pure joy of coming together with the people of Chester to celebrate life and have fun. It’s truly something special.”
The parade makes its way back to Town Hall square with the final frenetic beats of Karamba Samba. Afterwards we are all on a high, from the collective burst of happiness we have been a part of. The parade returned the following week, this time joined by the Roman Legion, torches blazing in the night to mark the festival of Saturnalia. Neuza Morais continuing her year long study of the parades and their impact commented later:
“I’ve never seen anything like last week, it was a magical experience, I cried!
Many speak of how the parades celebrate our history and culture, embedding the traditions of the past in the modern world. Alongside that the parades are a unique Chester way to have fun, make friends and be part of something magical.
The Chester blog 