Every year since 1973 the important Civil War battle of Nantwich in 1644 has been recreated in the town. Whilst Chester was a Royalist stronghold, Nantwich was held by the opposing Parliamentarians. I feel a little bit like a King, as my bus passes through the shared space of Frodsham street, looking down on the world below. The bus journey to Nantwich takes just over an hour.

Blinded by the winter sun, the journey takes me through Boughton, Vicars Cross and then onto the neighbouring villages and farming communities. Up market Tarporley impresses me with its pleasant streets and range of independent businesses, and I spy the office of Chester South and Eddisbury MP Aphra Brandreth. The ride by Snugbury’s ice cream takes in the giant sculpture of bear of the moment, Paddington.

Nantwich is very busy , with the Battle always attracting crowds of tourists. “Council making money scheme in operation. Do not park here for more than 30 minutes” says a sign stuck in the window of a model shop near to the bus station. Despite this antipathy to the council, the town is full of beautiful well maintained buildings with many listed Tudor and Georgian properties. The Market is particularly nice, “a proper market” some might say with a good range of stores selling goods, local produce and a small café. Obviously well supported by residents, the market is open on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The busy vibe is enhanced by the monthly Farmer’s Market which extends out towards the Town Square.

The compact Town Square is full of people enjoying a Morris dancing display. “We like to dance because its like sticking two fingers up at Oliver Cromwell” says one of the performers, a reference to the Puritan leader’s ban on many cultural activities. After picking up tickets for the Battle and an informative and detailed programme, the town museum is next on the itinerary. That too is packed out with visitors with the band “Forlorn Hope” performing music from the 17th century. I imagine it as the soundtrack to an imaginary Netflix documentary about the carnage which will soon unfold. An expert volunteer next to a large model of the battlefield provides extra insight as the music plays on.

A display about the regions cheese making legacy reveals that the Romans brought their cheese making skills to Deva.

Having missed the staged punishment of a trooper in the pillory outside the museum by minutes, a visit to A.T Welch on Hospital Street is worth a blog entry to itself. The deli and butchers shop has been trading since 1922, with the current family owners being in place since the 1960s. The long narrow shop sells a wide range of local produce, with the apron wearing staff giving a glimpse back at how shopping used to be, before the rise of supermarkets. The smell of coffee beans lingers next to a display of the world’s largest Kit Kat ( not for sale) . At the back of the shop is an extra surprise, a vintage shop front museum showcasing a 1940s shopping experience. The museum sits next to a cosy café area decorated with vintage signs and adverts and all adding to the warm nostalgic feel of visiting this shop.

After a brief explore of the town’s shops, I stand in line to watch the parade of soldiers, heading off to battle. The leaders of the respective forces ride past at the front on horse back, followed by the recreated armies. Drummers and battle cries add to the authenticity as the events of 381 years ago are remembered. I am confused by which army is which but it hardly matters as I follow the parade into the Town Square where the armies line up for a troop inspection.

A preacher delivers a passionate and dramatic speech to cheers from the soldiers:

“I know thy fear, i see it in your eyes. And so The Lord that beseeches you to action. also gives you peace, gives you comfort. Comfort my people says the Lord, for though it is English men and the hated Irish that you stand before today, it is the wrath of princes that you stand before, the wrath of Kings. Those who would think Nantwich a Jericho! “

Heading to Mill Island, the field is already packed with rows of spectators, softly trampling the emerging leaves of spring bulbs underfoot. The armies enter the field and soon the air is alive with cannon and musket fire, with no concerns spared for the local animal community. Onlookers are advised to cup their hands over their ears if the volume is too loud. A commentator describes the unfolding scene but can barely be heard over the gunfire and clash of pikes.

Local historical reenactor Mike Graham who took part in the Battle of Nantwich re-enactment provided his insights into the event. His regiment, The Earl of Manchester’s Regiment of Foote, is a Parliamentarian re-enactment group that brings the world of the 17th Century and the English Civil War to life. He also performs at events in Chester as a medieval Doctor at the Castle and other venues.

Mike explained that Nantwich is a special event for him, as it was the first reenactment event he attended, along with his son Jamie, back in 2017. 

“Once the drums start up and the commands are given to march, there is a real stir of excitement in your blood. There is nothing like it, the feeling is incredible. We aim to commemorate and re-enact the English Civil Wars, one of the most tumultuous periods in British history. Many people died because of the wars, so it is important that those sacrifices are remembered and honoured.”

“But we do also want to put on a spectacle that is enjoyable for the public, hence the songs we sing and the regimental calls we shout as we march along the packed streets before the battle itself. The appreciation from the public in Nantwich is amazing.”

Mike and Jamie are both musketeers in their regiment. The requirements are very strict – they both have to hold valid shotgun licences and pass a test to be able to fire on the field in a safe way.

“We don’t actually fire real musketballs, just paper wadding, but the muskets we carry are live, and the gunpowder we use is real, so the sounds and smells are very genuine. There is a real competitive edge to the battle itself, which you can clearly see with the pike blocks carrying their 16 foot pikes, pushing back the enemy so as to not lose ground. We, as musketeers, also conduct hand to hand fighting with the enemy – we are trained to do this in a theatrical style of combat.

“But fighting is not for everyone, so we are supported by non combatant fellow members such as the baggage train which followed us onto the field, looking after us and making sure we are hydrated and safe.”

As history can’t be changed, the Battle of Nantwich results in a decisive victory for the Parliamentarians and the Royalist domination of Cheshire is ended.

“After the battle we return back to the sports hall to get out of our kit, have a cup of soup, a sandwich, and a beer, then chat with our former enemies about how the battle played out. It’s a tiring but fulfilling day, I’m looking forward to going back next year already!”

http://www.battleofnantwich.org